Sunday, November 30, 2014

At Pleasant Grove Baptist



Although visiting in Gee’s Bend is quite church like, I always want to attend Sunday service. This year I carry Sammy to Pleasant Grove Missionary Baptist Church; it’s the church where Martin Luther King, Jr spoke, and Mary Ann Pettway is in the choir. We drive up to the brick building as Sunday School is ending, a bit early for the main event, so we sit in the quiet comfort of the rental car’s AC, looking. A very large woman in a white suit carrying a massive watermelon greets a second large lady, putting the melon in the gleaming trunk of a big white car.
 It happens to be Homecoming on this particular Sunday, and we are there for close to four hours. The sermon itself is over an hour, with the pastor singing half of it. He talks about evil, he speaks of gratitude. The congregation responds. The choir belts out lovely punctuation. There are two collection events. The deacons speak. We are called on to speak, we are welcomed to the church. We watch squirmy children, teenaged boys elbowing each other, shirts pressed, tucked into pants that hang low. Finally it is over and we are invited to lunch in the fellowship hall. Women with aprons covering church clothes stand over large stainless steel trays filled with mac and cheese, greens, fried chicken. They spoon dollops onto Styrofoam plates. The room has a baptismal pool; it is painted aqua and has a painting of Jesus on the wall that was done by a member of the church. I am sad that no one has come forward on this day wishing to be baptized.

Mary Lee Bendolph



Mary Lee Bendolph: so positive! Filled with gratitude and sweet frankness. She has good and bad days; I think she had a stroke several years ago, and she talks often about how her mind is not right and some activities really hurt her head. Arranging images on her wall (in a quilt like fashion) is a favorite pastime; sometimes this wears her out. One day we call to visit and she’s not up for having us, another day we go and she is even able to show us her piecing method. Arranging, tearing, cutting. “We used what we had, mmmm hmmm.”
I am amazed at the frankness of her conversation. She speaks so freely of sex, pregnancy, fertility, marriage. As a young adolescent, just 13 years old, she was pregnant before she knew how one could get that way. Mary Lee was one of 17 children and thus her mama didn’t spend too much time explaining things to her. Just the command to “Be lovely.” Until one day her mama told her she had to stop going to school. And despite her successes at life, she’s still filled with regret over her lack of education.  
Visiting with Mary Lee is a lot like going to church. Conversation follows the rhythm of a sermon’s call and response; her monologues are regularly broken up with “yes lord”, “thanks the lord”, “mmmhmmm”, “alright”. She is full of grace and gratitude, laughing frequently, almost singing while she speaks. Then she will break into song; it is deliberate, lovely.

Saturday, September 27, 2014

American or Southern?


The two motel choices in Camden, AL. You could make a Venn diagram.....

*curry smell in lobby                             *pool                                           *coffee maker
*quieter                                                 *semi-permanent guests               *lively pool scene
*noisy AC                                              *cracks in plaster                         *quiet AC
*lumpy pillows/ thin sheets                   *micro fridge                               *smooth sheets
*lovely vegetation                                  *fear of bedbugs                       *odd smells, assorted trash

Above is the lobby of the American Inn. Sleeping at either can be restless. The rhythms of the AC, TV dreams, thoughts of the Kardashians, itches that grow into bedbug anxiety.....

Friday, September 26, 2014

American Inn


Camden, AL
Crepuscular.
As shot with the pink Holga. 
Sammy in the pool.

Monday, September 22, 2014

Pink Holga!


The pink Holga was purchased for my trip through the deep south this past August. My companion was my daughter Sammy. Sammy and I both enjoyed the Holga. Immensely.
Arrow: US Roue 80 east, Alabama.
Storefront:  St Claude Ave, NOLA

Friday, September 19, 2014

Red Dirt


Alberta, Alabama. 2014. August.
Is my version worthy?

Monday, July 21, 2014

Home



This is the story of how I, a nice girl raised on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, and educated at fine, Northeastern liberal institutions came to feel utterly and completely at home in the rural south. The woman who catalyzed this transformation of allegiance for me was Leona Fennell, so it is also the tale of Leona.
In 1991 I had just finished my Masters in Art Ed at Tufts, and there was a scarcity of teaching jobs in New England. Possessed with a spirit of adventure one June Sunday, I purchased a bunch of newspapers and sent out a flurry of resumes. There was no response to my inquiries until August, when I got a phone call from Eleanor Adams, principal, Colleton Elementary, in Walterboro, South Carolina. School was starting the very next day, and they needed an art teacher.
“Are you white?” she asked me. “I can hear from your voice that you are white”.
Although Mrs Adams was ready to hire me on the basis of just my stellar resume and a phone conversation, I wanted to visit the school and the town BEFORE signing a year-long teaching contract.
I flew down to visit the small town in the South Carolina Lowcountry. Driving out to Walterboro from the Charleston airport was a soft and stunning experience, massive pines, dark, swampy dips, soft and pungent air.
Mrs. Adams put me up for the weekend with her Aunt Leona; and that was all it really took for me to agree to sign the teaching contract.

Leona is a retired beautician and closet interior decorator. Thus her large brick ranch is immaculately composed circa 1977 and meticulously kept. It’s all velour wallpaper and color coordination. There is a blue parlor for entertaining- plush carpet, dark wood, mirrors and a blue living room set. The kitchen is pink and green with frilly lamp shades and crocheted doilies for the bible stands. The screened in side porch is lavender. Naturally there’s a beauty alcove complete with helmet hair dryers.
“Call me Ma, you home now baby.” Leona said this every day, and then proceeded to give a litany of instruction and advice with her very particular blend of accent, inflection, and speech impediment.
(She told me she had a “tie tongue” which I had never heard of, but I guess that this condition makes for some kind of speech impediment. To me, this just made Leona’s utterances more charming and endearing. There was another young woman teacher also living with us who was from a town about two hours away. Her name is Denise, but Leona couldn’t quite say it correctly, just as she can’t say my name correctly. We are Jenise and Tea-er. Denise was not ever in Leona’s favor. She was pretty but fat, and this and some of her habits and affects mage her seem slovenly. Leona still asks me what her name is every time I see her.
THESE ARE SOME OF THE LEONAISMS
*Take off your shoes as to not dirty the carpet.
*Answer with YES MA’AM.
*After wearing any item of clothing outside of the house, wash it. This prevents the acquisition of cockroaches.
*It is good for your teeth to eat sticky or hard candy if you keep it in your mouth while it dissolves.

As she had such a passion for clean clothes (and cleanliness in general), Leona would circle ads for washer/ dryers in THE SHOPPER every week for me.

In the evenings, Leona would drive me slowly around Walterboro in her white Cutlass Supreme, narrating the town. There’s the funeral parlor where Larry works, there’s the Baptist church, there’s the Methodist Church, that there’s the Jew Church.
She introduced me to all of her friends while holding court on the lavender side porch. After her mortician friend visited (“you know I work on dead people”) she said, “You know, Larry is a HE-SHE…”.
While an earlier version of myself might have been horrified by these descriptions that Leona belted out so regularly, I was able to appreciate her honesty and warmth and the complexity of her being.
I found my own place to live in Walterboro and managed to maintain my relationship with Leona. Whenever I visited she’d always reassure me that I was home. Eventually I moved back to New England after having kids. It was a difficult decision, but my husband and I felt that it’d be easier to be closer to family; also we were happy to leave behind giant cockroaches, fire ants, mold, ample sweating, and poor schools.
A few years ago I brought my 2 lovely daughters to the south for a visit. Our first stop was Leona’s. She set us up in the guest bedrooms with their high metal beds and frilly bed skirts. She luxuriated in the act of brushing and fashioning the girls’ long, beautiful hair. After lavishing them with TV, candy, and sweet tea, she said, “relax girls, you home now.”